In Mexico, the serious Christmas season begins with a series of celebrations and festivities called Las Posadas, a Spanish term meaning “inns” or “shelters”. Every night from December 16th through Christmas Eve on the 24th – called Nochebuena in Spanish – families and neighbors get together in one another’s homes to re-enact the arrival of Joseph and Mary into Bethlehem, and the problems they had finding shelter just before the birth of Jesus.
Colorful Pinatas
At the beginning of the season, as we in the north put up and decorate our Christmas trees, the Mexicans traditionally set up crèches or Nativity scenes instead, although Christmas trees, lights and candy canes are becoming increasingly popular and unfortunately overtaking the Mexican tradition. The Nativity scenes can be very simple affairs or highly decorated and ornate; beds of Spanish moss and straw are often set down, upon which are set figurines made of clay, ceramics, plastic, paper mache or almost any other material, depicting Joseph and Mary, the manger with the Christ child, farm animals, camels and donkeys, and the Three Magi. Many crèches include elaborate straw-thatched sheds and backdrops, palm trees and miscellaneous other decorations.
Once the Posadas begin, the nightly ritual involves processions of pilgrims, sometimes costumed, all carrying candles or lamps and sometimes statues of Joseph and Mary with their donkey, who pass from house to house in the neighborhood, singing a song in which Joseph and Mary ask for shelter. They are refused entry at each door until the procession arrives at the house which is to be the host for that particular night’s party. This time when the pilgrims sing their request for shelter, the innkeeper (party host) finally lets Joseph and Mary inside, and a blessing is given at the crèche.
At that point there is usually plenty of food and drink brought out, including tamales and atole (a sweet gruel made of ground corn, sugar and flavorings), and the children and young folk typically take turns at trying to break one or more piñatas. A piñata is a brightly decorated clay or paper maché pot filled with traditional Christmas sweets, sugar cane, peanuts, oranges, small toys and other goodies. Although piñatas can come in a vast variety of shapes these days, traditionally the Christmas piñata was decorated with 7 pointed cones sticking out of it, festooned with colored crepe or shiny paper and streamers. The piñata itself symbolizes the Devil, and the 7 points are the 7 deadly sins, which one of blind faith could vanquish by breaking off its points and eventually releasing the boons and goodness within, with that final shower of sweets and trinkets.
Generally the piñata is strung up over the heads of the children on a moveable rope that allows an adult to somewhat manipulate the height and placement of the piñata. Each child takes a turn, usually starting with the youngest and moving through to the older children, sometimes even the adults. The child is blindfolded and given a stick, then turned around a few times to add a bit of disorientation to the fun. Then the child is let loose to swing, baseball-bat-fashion, at the spot where he or she thinks the piñata is hanging. This can be wildly inaccurate, and the crowd around will noisily egg on and direct (or misdirect, as the case may be) the child in his or her efforts. Finally one of the kids will place a heavy-enough hit on the pot to smash it apart and allow the contents to come spilling out, to then be frantically gathered up by the squealing children.
On the night of the 24th, concluding the final posada, the birth of Christ is at last announced with much brouhaha and celebration, and the party-goers of that evening all take themselves down to the local church for midnight mass, or Misa de Gallo (literally, rooster mass).
